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It was midafternoon on a clear fall day, a Saturday. The lunch crowd had gone, but it was too early for dinner. The many restaurants for which Moody Street has long been famous were trolling for outdoor customers—offering features such as potted plants, electric heaters and closed tents (the latter presenting possible COVID risk, in my view). Indoor seating was now allowed by state regulation, but most diners still chose to sit outdoors when weather permitted, as it did this day.

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